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Old May 19th 2015, 05:59 AM   #1
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Stumble at 5000 RPM

I rode into work today and noticed a fairly significant stumble exactly at 5000 RPM. It happened when I was cruising about 70 mph and slowly rolled on the gas (maybe 15% to 20% throttle). As soon as I touch 5000 RPM it starts to buck. I pulled in the clutch and rev'd it and again it stumbles and never goes over 6000 RPM. Its not a little cough or sputter but a "holy shit this thing is gonna buck me off" stumble. A few miles later everything was fine. Could accelerate normally. This has happened one other time but it was just once and couldn't be duplicated. This morning I did it about 4 times right in a row. After those 4 times then the bike behaved normally.

So what are your thoughts?

Mods:
Rapidbike Race
SAS block off plates
Cored stock cans
MWR Air filter

Bike was in Sport mode with 195 HI (all other sport settings stock). Engine temp was 153 F, ambient was 46 F.

I recently changed the thermostat housing, switched to SAMCO hoses, put Engine ice in, added the SAS plates, and *changed spark plugs*. Spark plugs are stock NGK replacements. Same heat range/ratings. Nothing fancy. Prior to performing this work the bike had run really nicely with the Rapidbike, cans, and filter. It seems this stumble may be related to something with the work I just did.

Personally I'm suspicious of the plug wires. Maybe a coil.

Last edited by JPKII; May 19th 2015 at 06:17 AM.
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Old May 19th 2015, 06:24 AM   #2
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how about the O2 sensors and their connections?

exactly at 5000 flat ? That's weird.
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Old May 19th 2015, 06:30 AM   #3
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I would go back over everything you just did. It sounds like the plugs, maybe the gap or a loose plug wire.
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Old May 19th 2015, 06:34 AM   #4
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Did it throw a check engine light? I recently went through something very similar with my 2012, it would drop the rear cylinder, it started at the drags launching. Then started doing it on the street. Turned out to be an injector.
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Old May 19th 2015, 06:46 AM   #5
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No CEL before, during, or after. It idles fine and below 5000 RPM is totally normal. When it does start to stumble the tach jumps around quite a bit.

I'll check the O2 connections to the RB tonight. If I had a bad O2 sensor would it throw a CEL?

Yeah, almost right at 5000 RPM. It's hard to be more accurate because when it starts it gets a little unnerving.

The plugs don't get gapped. But I could buy into a loose plug wire.

@centeroff: Was the injector dirty or did it fail? I'm debating running some injector cleaner through it. I didn't add any fuel stabilizer in my gas this winter but I did ride it anytime the weather permitted (above 30 F and no salt on the roads). So it did get fresh gas every few weeks. But we know how shitty the ethanol is in the gas here so...
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Old May 19th 2015, 06:54 AM   #6
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We use NGK race plugs all the time. I never trust the gap they are supposed to have out of the box. Always check the gap when installing new plugs.
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Old May 19th 2015, 07:01 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by leftcoast32 View Post
We use NGK race plugs all the time. I never trust the gap they are supposed to have out of the box. Always check the gap when installing new plugs.
Interesting. When I bought the plugs the folks I bought them from said they can't be gapped. I was suspicious but once I saw the plug I understood.

This is what I bought:

NGK 6869 MAR9A-J Nickel Spark Plug

NGK MAR9A-J

What do you think?
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Last edited by JPKII; May 19th 2015 at 07:10 AM.
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Old May 19th 2015, 07:07 AM   #8
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Yeah, those are the dual strap plugs.

Try the wires next then, you can check the ohms of resistance in each wire to make sure one is not bad.
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Old May 19th 2015, 07:33 AM   #9
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This reminds of an issue I had with my hyper. It ended up being the throttle assy. I'd check the plug wires first though.
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Old May 19th 2015, 08:19 AM   #10
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You can still set gap on those. It's a PITA. If they check fine, leave em be.

-try different fuel
-check all connections
-check the throttle tube
-try different power settings
-try different EBC settings
-You said Rapid bike. Aftemarket FMS can do all kinds or weird stuff. Try a reflash or whatever.
-does Ducati's scan tool have a feed back for the low speed injectors, or will they need removed for testing?
-get on the dyno
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