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Old Feb 27th 2016, 04:57 AM   #91
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Originally Posted by wfoduck View Post
Have you installed the smog block off plates? I was wondering as to how you plugged the hoses or inlets in the air box? My plates are on but I haven't got to the last step yet.
No; I am not sure they are that relevant. The stated benefit is that they "eliminate back firing on deceleration and enable accurate air-to-fuel ratio measurement on a dyno or when using a wide band o2 sensor." That, and the fact that they will void and fuel-related warranty issues concerns me a little. If there are other benefits, please let me know; but I do not think that it is a mod that I am that interested in at the moment.

Now, if they actually help the bike run cooler, then that is something I will look into. See: Smog block off plates?

Last edited by Styler; Feb 27th 2016 at 05:08 AM.
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Old Mar 7th 2016, 06:02 AM   #92
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Progress - battery and tail section.

I installed the Shorai lithium battery this weekend. It is hard to believe the difference in size and weight. The estimated 3/5 lbs in weight savings is even more impressive when it is so concentrated on a single, relatively small item.
Anyway, it comes charged with all of the closed cell foam you will need (and more) to fill the void left in the battery case. I was able to use all of the OEM battery connectors (without an extension) and secured the battery with the the OEM batter cover. (See first pic.)

I purchased it for $122 shipped from eBay; however, Jarel has since resurrected the group buy and so I would recommend purchasing it through him (Ducati Omaha). See: Shorai Battery GROUP BUY #2

Also, some of my bodywork was delivered last week, with the rest having shipped on Friday. I received the tail section, front fairing and air intakes. Still to come is the belly pan, race windscreen and side panels. The quality of the paint work makes my OEM paint look old and tired, which it probably is after 13,000 miles; however, it never was very good.

I started work on mounting the tail section. Below is an early pic in the process, with more to come this week.
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Last edited by Styler; Mar 7th 2016 at 06:43 AM.
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Old Mar 8th 2016, 05:35 AM   #93
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Mounting the Tail Section

At first I thought the Tighttails sub-frame was 8 inches too short, which was out of character given how well the sub-frame mounted to the engine and the precise housing constructed to hold the black box. However, I then realized that I needed to bolt the plastic, triangular tray from the OEM sub-frame to the Tighttails sub-frame to provide the remaining structure for the tail section.

I now have the alignment down after drilling three holes - the two at the top-rear of the tail section and the one at the top-front, immediately behind the gas tank. The next step is to tighten up the two parts of the aluminum sub-frame and the OEM plastic tray that bolts to it. (I left them less-than finger tight to get everything in position.)

Once the sub-frame and platform are bolted tight. I'll begin drilling holes for the other four mounting points connecting the removable bottom of the tail section to the sub-frame.

I'll take some more pictures as I progress to illustrate the process and the use of fasteners, plastic washers and rubber spacers.
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Old Mar 8th 2016, 05:55 AM   #94
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Hey Styler

May I ask how you'd install the P16 Air filter?
Did you just push in the Carbon Frame into the airbox, without any additional clamps or holding brackets? Mine fits perfect but it takes almost no force the take it out of it's position again. I am thinking about some sort of securing mechanism. I really don't want to ride on bumpy roads without the air filter properly in place.
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Old Mar 8th 2016, 06:01 AM   #95
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Originally Posted by Gecko View Post
Hey Styler

May I ask how you'd install the P16 Air filter?
Did you just push in the Carbon Frame into the airbox, without any additional clamps or holding brackets? Mine fits perfect but it takes almost no force the take it out of it's position again. I am thinking about some sort of securing mechanism. I really don't want to ride on bumpy roads without the air filter properly in place.
I purchased the "Factory Racing" air filter, which has the P16 mesh, but with the rubber surround/housing. It fits in perfectly and the rubber housing makes a tight seal. In short, I do not have any worry of it moving out of place.

Not knowing exactly how your filter fits and moves around, the only thing I can think of off-hand is using some type of silicone to make a tighter, compressible seal. Perhaps aquarium silicone, which is not caustic and will not effect any finished surfaces/metal.
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Last edited by Styler; Mar 8th 2016 at 06:04 AM.
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Old Mar 8th 2016, 06:03 AM   #96
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Originally Posted by Styler View Post
I purchased the "Factory Racing" air filter, which has the P16 mesh, but with the rubber surround/housing. It fits in perfectly and the rubber housing makes a tight seal. In short, I do not have any worry of it moving out of place.

Not knowing exactly how your filter fits and moves around, the only thing I can think of off-hand is using some type of silicone to make a tighter, compressible seal.
Man, you did the right thing!
There is no seal at all on the WSBK CF P16, just two CF tabs to push the filter into the airbox. Not a really secure solution.
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Old Mar 8th 2016, 06:08 AM   #97
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Originally Posted by Gecko View Post
Man, you did the right thing!
There is no seal at all on the WSBK CF P16, just two CF tabs to push the filter into the airbox. Not a really secure solution.
Perhaps Leon can chime in; he just moved to the P16 Race filter like yours because it has twice the surface area (a big benefit when paired with tuning). He may have an answer or suggestion. Good luck.
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Old Mar 10th 2016, 06:12 AM   #98
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Mounting the Tail Section (continued...)

As promised in post 93, above, here are a few more pics of the stuff required to mount the tail section.

First, one must remove the plastic, triangular tray from the OEM sub-frame and bolt it onto the Tightttails subframe using the three large OEM bolts. (See first pic.) As noted previously, this provides the mounting points for the two bolts on the top of the tail section. As you can see, I purchased some plastic washers from an automotive parts store and taped them to the platform to keep them in place when I put the tail section on and fasten it.

I also purchased some rubber spacers from the local auto parts store to cushion the point where all of the weight in the seat rests on the sub-frame. See photo two, and the last photo in the series. This should help prevent fractures in the supporting fiberglass structure under the seat.

The other neat thing I found at the automotive store are these little bolt caps. (See pic 3). They are intended for covering license plate bolts and come in white and black. The clear plastic washer has a lip on it, which secures the white cap. (See pic 4.) You will need three of these for the three bolts on the top of the tail section. One for the bolt at the base of the tank and two for the bolts at the top rear, which secure the tail to the triangular tray from the OEM sub-frame I spoke of earlier. You will need to purchase some M5 bolts with a wide, flat Allen head. They screw directly into the plastic tray; no nuts are required.

I discovered that there are four mounting points where the bottom tray of the tail section mount to the Tighttails sub-frame. Here, I used the Woodcraft clips. The rear two (see last picture) simply clip over the aluminum tab; however, the front two require some changes to work. The tab is to short/curved for the length of the clip and so they cannot just slide on like the rear clips. You must disasemble the clip, removing the piece that sandwiches the metal tab. Then, mount the clip on top of the tab sideways and epoxy it to the sub-frame.

My last step is to secure the perimeter of the under tray of the tail section to the top of the tail section. This will increase the structural integrity for the entire tail unit. I seek some guidance on this step.
What are most people are using to connect the two pieces of the tail section together?
Specifically, the type of fasteners around perimeter of the bottom plate. It looks like the clip fasteners would be ideal, except for the cost because it would require purchasing another 9 clips. (And, it might also be overkill.)
Attached Thumbnails
The Conversion and the Converted-img_2310.jpg   The Conversion and the Converted-img_2312.jpg   The Conversion and the Converted-img_2313.jpg   The Conversion and the Converted-img_2315.jpg   The Conversion and the Converted-img_2317.jpg  

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Last edited by Styler; Mar 10th 2016 at 06:14 AM.
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Old Mar 11th 2016, 02:10 PM   #99
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Things are starting to come together; however, there is still a pile of work to do.
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Old Mar 18th 2016, 08:27 AM   #100
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Pic of the front fairing stay with Armour Bodies air intake.
Looks Ominous.

Pic 2: I decided to use plastic rivets around the perimeter of the tail section's under-tray. Unfortunately, my rivet gun worked on one rivet and then refused to pull the others tight. Can't figure out why; it still works on metal rivets other than it is just not grabbing the plastic pin well enough to pull it tight.

Pic 3: I still cannot figure out what to do about the front fairing and its poor fit at the mounting points connecting it to the fairing stay.
The indentations prevent the windscreen from mounting flush to the fairing. I either have to grind off the windscreen's tabs or the bulbous protrusions on the inside of the fairing. But if I grind the fairing, I may not be able to bolt it securely to the fairing stay.
Looks like the windscreen may get the dremmel; however, I'll mount the fairing first to ensure the fit of it to the mounting points on the fairing stay.

Only 6 more days before I load her onto a trailer and head to the track!
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The Conversion and the Converted-img_2329.jpg   The Conversion and the Converted-img_2330.jpg   The Conversion and the Converted-img_2332.jpg  
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Last edited by Styler; Mar 18th 2016 at 08:30 AM.
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