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Old Jan 29th 2016, 07:51 AM   #51
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I Ride: kx450f & 1199 panigale
Ok thanks.
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Old Jan 31st 2016, 03:12 PM   #52
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Talking Hollow, Titanium Caliper Bolts

The replacement bolts form Podium Racing came yesterday and I mounted them today. VERY light; I could not believe how heavy the OEM bolts felt in my hand as a comparison.
Not that I will even notice the difference in weight on the bike; but having properly drilled caliper bolts will make rewiring much easier at the track in sub-optimal lighting conditions every time I need to mount a new slick. (Especially when you consider one of the holes in my old bolts was blind, blocked by a drill bit that broke off in there.)
The first pic highlights the hollow center of the bolt (40% lighter than regular titanium bolts) and the last pic highlights the difference in finish and the head.
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Last edited by Styler; Feb 1st 2016 at 05:49 AM.
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Old Jan 31st 2016, 04:19 PM   #53
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METTEC is also a good source for Titanium bolts/items.
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Last edited by GME56; Jan 31st 2016 at 04:27 PM.
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Old Feb 4th 2016, 09:51 AM   #54
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Talking Sub-frame

The sub-frame arrived today after being powder-coated.
Nice!
It's hard to understand how light 2.9 lbs is until you hold it in your hands.
It is going to be hard to work the rest of the day, knowing that I can bolt this puppy onto the engine tonight!
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Old Feb 5th 2016, 06:16 AM   #55
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Question Sub-frame: Tips on removing black box?

I had to work late and by the time I was done and eaten dinner I had no ability to focus on details. So, I’ll get to it this weekend.
I’ll post some pics and anything I have learned along the way after its bolted on and the wiring loom and black box is secured in the tail. During the interim, here are a couple of pics of it in place, but unsecured to the bike.

Meanwhile, if anybody has any tips regarding pulling the black box out of the tail section, please let me know. I have disconnected the rear part of the wiring loom with the black box from the main part of the wiring loom. I assume next step is to pop the tail cowling/passenger seat and disconnect the wires going to the rear lights; but I won't be sure until I explore. For those who have done this before, please chime in.
Cheers.
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Last edited by Styler; Feb 5th 2016 at 06:22 AM.
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Old Feb 5th 2016, 06:42 AM   #56
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Originally Posted by Styler View Post
The replacement bolts form Podium Racing came yesterday and I mounted them today. VERY light; I could not believe how heavy the OEM bolts felt in my hand as a comparison.
Not that I will even notice the difference in weight on the bike; but having properly drilled caliper bolts will make rewiring much easier at the track in sub-optimal lighting conditions every time I need to mount a new slick. (Especially when you consider one of the holes in my old bolts was blind, blocked by a drill bit that broke off in there.)
The first pic highlights the hollow center of the bolt (40% lighter than regular titanium bolts) and the last pic highlights the difference in finish and the head.
Good luck on the hollow ti bolts, we use ti hardware on our 410,BUT never hollow, we learned that lesson many years ago.
Thanks from Gecko
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Old Feb 5th 2016, 06:47 AM   #57
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Originally Posted by centeroff View Post
Good luck on the hollow ti bolts, we use ti hardware on our 410,BUT never hollow, we learned that lesson many years ago.
We shall see then. Care to elucidate?
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Old Feb 8th 2016, 05:57 AM   #58
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Thumbs up Woodcraft bar-ends and lever guards

The woodcraft bar ends and lever guards arrived on Friday. I installed tem on Saturday, taking about 30 minutes to pull the OEM bar-ends, fit the Woodcraft product hand tight, adjust and then apply blue thread-lock to all bolts and torque into place.

I am very impressed with the durable design and purpose-built construction of the products, a billet aluminum base with replaceable nylon components that may be purchased individually if one happens to crash.
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Old Feb 8th 2016, 06:12 AM   #59
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Thumbs up Installation of the Tightails Sub-frame

I must say, the longest part of the entire process was disassembling the OEM tail-section, determining which part of the wiring needed to be pulled and extracting the black-box out of the tail without damaging the heat shielding glued to the bottom of it.

Job done, the tail section will be about 8-to-9 lbs lighter than OEM, depending on the weight of the Amour Bodies Superbike Tailsection when it is painted and the foam seat glued in place. Of course, not all of this is due to the 2.9 lb sub-frame. After all, there are significantly less parts after one deletes the tail lights, extra plastic, rubber and the OEM plastics.

I am very impressed with the sub-frame's fit, welds and the attention to detail that went into its design and construction and particularly with how well the black-box fits into position and is secured.

I am so pleased with the black powder coating I may have to have the fairing stay powder-coated as well when it shows up later this week.

I'll try to take some better pics when the background is not so cluttered.

EDIT: Oh, and the observant among you might notice that the Sato Race Hooks bolt right on, giving the all important tie-down points when transporting the bike.
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Last edited by Styler; Feb 9th 2016 at 06:02 AM.
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Old Feb 8th 2016, 08:01 AM   #60
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Originally Posted by centeroff View Post
Good luck on the hollow ti bolts, we use ti hardware on our 410,BUT never hollow, we learned that lesson many years ago.
Wouldn't say "never". It depends on the torque. E.g. the two excenter clamp bolts, no problems... Or the horn mounting screw

I prefer partially hollow, not completely drilled thru. This prevents water getting into the inner side of the threads.
Thanks from AntiHero

Last edited by Gecko; Feb 8th 2016 at 08:03 AM.
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