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Old Aug 10th 2017, 12:58 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Piri View Post
Hmm ... Are you sure? According to my instructions for use: F = flat = solo operation, P = progressive = with passenger
See rear shock thread or inside the panigale story. F track P road
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Old Aug 10th 2017, 11:32 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by Halo2 View Post
See rear shock thread or inside the panigale story. F track P road
Ok, thank you Halo, I will look at it!
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Old Aug 11th 2017, 01:56 AM   #13
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Where do you find bumps on the roads in Switzerland ?
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Old Aug 11th 2017, 03:01 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Calderara di Reno View Post
Where do you find bumps on the roads in Switzerland ?
I know I am complaining at a high Level . But I am often traveling in foreign countries

No, seriously: i am not concerned here with comfort, but to keep the chosen line. And this is partly difficult with this attitude of suspension.
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Old Aug 11th 2017, 06:43 PM   #15
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Yes , when the bike is to stiff for your weight on the road, when you hit a bump/dip in a corner the bike will want to stand up, not good. Get your sag ( with gear on ) 40mm front and 35mm rear. If you cant get to those numbers with back off the preload , you need to go to lighter springs , end of story .
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Old Aug 12th 2017, 01:47 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Calderara di Reno View Post
Yes , when the bike is to stiff for your weight on the road, when you hit a bump/dip in a corner the bike will want to stand up, not good. Get your sag ( with gear on ) 40mm front and 35mm rear. If you cant get to those numbers with back off the preload , you need to go to lighter springs , end of story .

Yes, Calderara, this is exactly what the bike does
With the BMW S1000RR the entire bike is softer with the adjustment of the damping. At the Pani is obviously not the case. Why?
I have put the DES Dynamic mode on "softest". I do not know if I should try to change from the "Dynamic" to the "Fixed" mode and go there a few clicks up. Maybe it will be a bit better ...? Probably I will have to change the springs.
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Old Aug 12th 2017, 03:52 AM   #17
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Get the $90 spring, beats a $200 carbon shark fin
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Old Aug 12th 2017, 04:12 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by jyli19 View Post
Get the $90 spring, beats a $200 carbon shark fin
Well, i think i'll have to do it...
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Old Aug 12th 2017, 01:29 PM   #19
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If your bike is standing up in corners hitting bumps and generally getting unsettled ,the front springs will have more effect than the rear, but seriuosly do front and rear . Ducati set their superbikes for a 75-85kg rider and this is typically hard/stiff.
Lighter springs will get your preload back into an adjustable range and your compression (controls the speed of the stroke) , back into an adjustable range. Having your compression clicked right out is only masking the effect of an icorrect spring for your weight .
I took my race bike out the back roads today to sort out a few electronic settings and the stiff setting for the track doesnt work on the road .
If you can get a rear spring that gives you the correct sag with very little (adjustable) preload in it , meaning your sitting on top of the spring, this will give you a less harsh ride.

Measure your sag , get the numbers, this is important to understand where to go to 1st.
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Old Aug 12th 2017, 01:36 PM   #20
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As Halo said try the P setting on the rear , this changes the linkage leverage on the spring , so the first part of the stroke moves with less effort giving a 'softer' ride . Also for pillions , as when the pillion weights the bike , it preloads the spring into the stroke where the linkage geometry requires mor effort to compress the spring. Spring windings and rates and preloading all sound complicated at first , but once you understand the physics , quite simple
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