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Old Mar 16th 2014, 05:56 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by outhouse View Post
Keeping a polymer on it with a carnuba is about the best protection without repainting the bike.
So rather then unload a lot of cash on a stronger clear coat which I'm really not keen to do. Use something like Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba Plus, which has polymers and carnauba in it, and provided I do it regularly then it shouldn't be an issue?

Thanks. I appreciate the info.


Also the 1199 guys who seem to always bring up why not by a base 1199 in every single thread in the 899 section, well they are out of my price range unfortunately (there's between 5-7K difference depending on who you talk too). I was going to get a Ninja 636 but decided to throw in a bit more cash and get my first Ducati. No regrets.

I'm not updating anything to try and make my bike look like a 1199. No weird Superleggera stickers, no aftermarket dash or single sided swing arm. I actually really like the 899 the way it is. But thank you for your concerns.
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Old Mar 16th 2014, 11:26 PM   #22
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Good on you
There should be more of it
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Old Mar 20th 2014, 07:50 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by 92GTA View Post
This thread is useless without suggestions on how to care properly for a single stage, water based paint job for all the people who do not know how.

Personally, I'm just not going to let it bother me. When the time comes, I'll just have a local hot rod shop do a polish for me to bring it back. Until then, I'll ride without any concern.

Alex
Get the 3M protection kit. It's a pain in the ass to apply. I did one or two sections each session on my 1199. It's virtually invisible.
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Old Mar 20th 2014, 08:52 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Rowan View Post

Also the 1199 guys who seem to always bring up why not by a base 1199 in every single thread in the 899 section, well they are out of my price range unfortunately (there's between 5-7K difference depending on who you talk too). I was going to get a Ninja 636 but decided to throw in a bit more cash and get my first Ducati. No regrets.

I'm not updating anything to try and make my bike look like a 1199. No weird Superleggera stickers, no aftermarket dash or single sided swing arm. I actually really like the 899 the way it is. But thank you for your concerns.

Go out and beat on it brother.


Ive been through all these debates before when I had my 848 and did not choose to get the 1098.
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Old Mar 20th 2014, 08:56 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Rowan View Post
So rather then unload a lot of cash on a stronger clear coat which I'm really not keen to do. Use something like Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba Plus, which has polymers and carnauba in it, and provided I do it regularly then it shouldn't be an issue?


Exactly.

Paint may get harder with time as well.


they also spray these bikes with a thick coat in your case. I highly doubt you would ever rub through despite the color your seeing bleed off.



I never worry about paint or looks, to me the bike is a tool, that has one purpose. Being beat on.
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Old Mar 21st 2014, 01:16 PM   #26
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You'd be surprised at how thin the paint is on recent Ducati's.

I doubt you'd find any bodyshops / paint shops jumping at the idea of compounding / polishing out panels.

Polishing with a machine, maybe but with all those sharp edges.... one hiccup with the buffer at 1800 rpm and you're gonna roast an edge. Then the dummy with the buffer owes you a repair job.

If you're CAREFUL you can gently sand the existing finish with 600 grit and maybe find a local body shop to use a high quality hi-solids clear and spray them up.


As far as care goes for a single stage paint.
1. Keep it clean, dirt = sandpaper.
2. as someone else mentioned the modern clear protective film (mylar) is actually a pretty decent product. Installed correctly it's barely noticeable.
3. I hate wax for dual stage finishes, for for single stage, it's better than nothing.

Last edited by ccr; Mar 21st 2014 at 01:34 PM.
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Old Mar 21st 2014, 02:33 PM   #27
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Thanks for a Professional opinion Sean (CCR) since not everyone knows exactly what is involved in paint. Since you eat, sleep, and breathe it (literally) its good having someone on here who can answer technical stuff like this.

Anyone not aware who Sean is from CCR can speak to a number of guys here on this forum who've actually had work done by him and can attest to his attention to detail and serious nature when it comes to his work. I know LJuice (Leon) had a sweet set of race bodywork done recently which came out great! Also, Sean was very helpful explaining to Leon why Sharkskinz is the BEST aftermarket bodywork to go with on many levels. Anyone curious why can contact him directly for the nitty gritty on that.

Custom Motorcycle Paint | Connecticut Cycle Refinishing

I have had 5-6 bikes, and various individual pieces done by Sean and actually won best paintwork on a couple of them. The American Flag paint on Phil's new SV race bike (my old bike) is a CCR job but is obviously not a premier work of art due to it being a hammered on track bike I went down on a couple times. Perhaps some of the other guys who've had CCR Paint jobs done are willing to chime in? And to answer the most asked question- NO he does not charge ridiculous prices for fantastic work!
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Old Mar 21st 2014, 02:44 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by ccr View Post
You'd be surprised at how thin the paint is on recent Ducati's.

I doubt you'd find any bodyshops / paint shops jumping at the idea of compounding / polishing out panels.

Polishing with a machine, maybe but with all those sharp edges.... one hiccup with the buffer at 1800 rpm and you're gonna roast an edge. Then the dummy with the buffer owes you a repair job.

If you're CAREFUL you can gently sand the existing finish with 600 grit and maybe find a local body shop to use a high quality hi-solids clear and spray them up.


As far as care goes for a single stage paint.
1. Keep it clean, dirt = sandpaper.
2. as someone else mentioned the modern clear protective film (mylar) is actually a pretty decent product. Installed correctly it's barely noticeable.
3. I hate wax for dual stage finishes, for for single stage, it's better than nothing.

Quite correct.

However, a small random orbital detail polisher with 4 inch (orange and white) foam pads will do a wonderful job if one knows what they're doing.
I used that gear on the 1199 with some Pinnacle finishing polish and the paint came up totally swirl free

Next time I need to do it, i'll try some Chemical Guys Blacklight as it's my new go to Glaze with a very minor amount of cut when used with a machine and some pressure.

You'd have to be a monkey on drugs to make a mess of it when using the right gear.
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Old Mar 21st 2014, 10:04 PM   #29
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My issue is removing bug guts. I'm using new microfiber cloths and I have Rain-X bug and tar remover. Even then and a wash with a good car wash soap, there were like "ghost" shadows in the paint on the nose fairing where the worse of the bug guts were. I'm worried about hurting the paint and making scratches swirls trying to remove them. I suspect I'm going to have to, then do something to protect the nose fairing like thick coat of wax.

Any suggestions? Thanks! This is on a red 899 btw!
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Old Mar 22nd 2014, 12:11 AM   #30
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I soak the bugs before touching them with a strong car wash mix and very warm water.
I dunk the wash mit into the solution and let it sit on the surface for a little while and they wash away clean.

I have also been using Chemical Guys VO7 as a last step on the front, and it helps the bugs to come off cleaner and easier.

I have also found that Swissvax Concourso is a good barrier with great staying power if you're looking at a Carnuba past wax.
First step. Chemical guys Blacklight applied with the Meguires yellow foam applicator pad.
Second step. Swissvax Concourso applied by finger tips and or Chemical Guys VO7 as a last step.

Last edited by Brad; Mar 22nd 2014 at 12:17 AM.
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