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Old Mar 24th 2014, 10:08 AM   #41
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Put the T in right below the upper radiator. small zipties as clamps
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Old Apr 22nd 2014, 07:25 PM   #42
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Can someone please report the last pic of the finished job? It's no longer appearing in the thread. Took the canister off today, and can't help but going WTF at the canister drain tube going nowhere...it exits where my finger is @ bottom left - into the bodywork! Also please ignore the duct tape marking the vacuum hose until it is properly plugged.


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Old Apr 22nd 2014, 07:34 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by outhouse View Post
You need to do something, or gas could dump down on the hot exhaust.


I installed a 1/4" T unto the other line coming from the tank and the install is very clean that way with less hoses.
So I understand you correctly, you're making a cut in the other line coming from the tank just below the upper radiator and installing the T there, with the leftover fuel line from the charcoal canister feeding into it? Makes sense following the lines. Also uses the least additional tubing.
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Old Apr 22nd 2014, 07:38 PM   #44
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Originally Posted by BAIBAICOP View Post
So I understand you correctly, you're making a cut in the other line coming from the tank just below the upper radiator and installing the T there, with the leftover fuel line from the charcoal canister feeding into it? Makes sense following the lines. Also uses the least additional tubing.
No.

You cut the long line by the radiator and install the T there. That is the long line that goes to the drain in the bottom of the fairing.


You simply take the second line from the tank to the canister and put that on the T installed on the long line, instead of the canister.



Ditch the bottom drain line.
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Old Apr 22nd 2014, 07:41 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by BAIBAICOP View Post
Can someone please report the last pic of the finished job?

Throw that line away your finger is touching


or save it if you retro back to stock
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Old Apr 22nd 2014, 07:43 PM   #46
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Originally Posted by outhouse View Post
No.

You cut the long line by the radiator and install the T there. That is the long line that goes to the drain in the bottom of the fairing.


You simply take the second line from the tank to the canister and put that on the T installed on the long line, instead of the canister.
We're definitely speaking of the same line, you just described it more effectively. Thank you.


Originally Posted by outhouse View Post
Ditch the bottom drain line.
Copy that.
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Old Apr 22nd 2014, 07:48 PM   #47
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Sweet.

If you look at the OPs first pic.

I put the T right about where the rubber tie holds the two hoses together by the radiator.
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Old Apr 22nd 2014, 07:57 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by outhouse View Post
Sweet.

If you look at the OPs first pic.

I put the T right about where the rubber tie holds the two hoses together by the radiator.
Thanks. Mine is not tied like that but it is obvious which line leads to the radiator and which leads to the tank
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Old Apr 23rd 2014, 04:56 AM   #49
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Off current topic but I wanted to give my update. I had one of the first '12 deliveries, hard starting, and starter replaced due to the excessive cranking. Since removing the canister I have not had any starting issues. Been riding at the Gap all week and the bike would normally embarrass the shit out of me. It's been a great week of normalcy. Wish I had listened earlier.
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Old Apr 23rd 2014, 05:22 PM   #50
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Here's a pic of the finished job to replace the one that's aged-out on the OP. I tend to over-do it on zipties, but there's no tubing touching metal anywhere, and only the original drains are in use. The Y connector is up near the lower radiator hose clamp. The vacuum line is plugged with a M4 bolt I torqued in with a socket wrench. Ain't goin' nowhere. No hose pinching going on either.



Consistently fires up like a champ now! Especially when over 180F which was a growing problem with the charcoal canister on. Quite a bit of gas in the charcoal canister I might add, despite being super-careful to never overfill.
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