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Old Jul 4th 2013, 05:23 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Zaid1199 View Post
why do you think that is? Does it have to do with the design of the bleed valve? normally you leave caliper on and pump brake then open valve, is 1199 more complex?
No idea how air ended up in the system. I didn't touch the rear brake all day, but the fluid was bubbling. ABS on the Panigale is linked, but only when both pedals are depressed....or so it is said. I'm guessing more is going on than what's been stated in the press version of the 1199s ABS system. ABS might not be linked, but the fluid clearly was or I wouldn't have had fluid boil in an untouched rear brake and I definitely wouldn't have lost the rear brake completely without so much as one depress on the pedal all day.

As Zaid has stated, air in the system can't escape by traveling down. It needs to be flipped for a complete bleed.
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Old Feb 21st 2014, 02:01 PM   #12
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I too tried bleeding the rear brake for 45 minutes with no effect. It never occured to me to flip the caliper over. Thanks!!!
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Old Feb 26th 2014, 12:33 AM   #13
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Has anybody had any experience using a pneumatic vacuum bleeder?
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Old Feb 26th 2014, 06:16 AM   #14
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I'm going to have to do this before my Trackday. At 700 miles and black brake fluid in my rear reservoir I have no rear brake at all. I'll flush and use motul rbf600 and hopefully get it back.

Thanks Antihero for the detailed "how-to"
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Old May 14th 2014, 06:01 PM   #15
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My fluid is BLACK as night,I need to do a flush.
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Old May 14th 2014, 06:37 PM   #16
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a mech showed me how to bleed it at the banjo bolt a lot quicker and easier. he told me I was crazy to remove the calipers. Few pumps and i was good to go. Worked like a charm
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Old Sep 25th 2014, 12:04 PM   #17
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@AntiHero: Thank you so much for this great thread!

Recently I replaced all bleeding nippels and banjo bolts on my Tri with the ones from Stahlbus. Unfortunately I was not careful enough and got some air into the rear brake system. Yessss. It's my stupid fault. I am SORRY!

So, I checked all threads on this great forum.

My plan is to do the bleeding of the system with a vacuum bleeder. The only thing I don't understand (maybe I am just too stupid) and nobody explicitly wrote here is this question:
1. connect "vacuum sucking system" to the brake caliper's bleeding nipple.
2. have enough liquid in the expansion vessel
3. open the nipple, start sucking
Does the brake lever (rear or from) really have to be pulled? And if yes, why? To get the air out of the master cylinder? to get additional pressure if vacuum isn't strong enough? Some even say that the lever should be pulled to its fully extend al the time with a zip tie or a weight.

Please note that the Stahlbus nipples (as many other systems) have a valve that protects the hydraulic system from getting air while bleeding.

Any comment would be highly appreciated!

Last edited by Gecko; Sep 25th 2014 at 12:08 PM.
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Old Sep 25th 2014, 12:08 PM   #18
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the rear brake comes flaccid from factory....
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Old Sep 25th 2014, 12:15 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by VAST View Post
the rear brake comes flaccid from factory....

yeah, it's the italian style
But in my case it was really stupid. I wanted to do a regular bleeding after installing the new nipples of a perfectly air-less system, so I started sucking while my GF on the other side of the bike pumped the brake. I told her to stop when the expansion vessel goes empty. She did, but the "sucking thing" continued to suck the fluid out of the system, until it was too late. It just sucked air into it.

Somehow all this sound like an XXX thread
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Old Sep 25th 2014, 12:17 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by VAST View Post
the rear brake comes flaccid from factory....
Who uses it anyway???
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