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Old Sep 25th 2014, 12:20 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Stw View Post
Who uses it anyway???
sometimes in mid-turn...but it doesnt work so....
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Old Sep 25th 2014, 12:44 PM   #22
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i - when i hammer down a straight and realize i missed my break maker. slam front and rear, let ABS do the rest

when i hop on the SV in the next session, i tend to draw 30 yd long black lines with the rear --- i should spray some oil on that disc...
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Old Sep 26th 2014, 12:40 PM   #23
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How To: Rear Brake Bleed

I recently bled the ABS system on my bike using a vacuum bleed running at 21 psi. It's imperative to ensure you check the vacuum pressure holds when you draw a vacuum, else you are just drawing more air into the system. Most often air is drawn in through the bleed nipple threads. I use a sparing amount of Teflon tape on the threads of the bleed nipples. You will know if it's effective by observing the gauge pressure remaining constant. You will need to draw through are least two or three times refilling the reservoir before it runs empty. Then repeat at the master cylinder. To effectively bleed the rear caliper it must be inverted so the bleed nipple is higher than the body of the caliper itself. This is not a hard and fast guide but as long as all your connections to and from the vacuum bleeder are airtight, it is a very effective method for bleeding the ABS system.
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Old Sep 26th 2014, 09:52 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by topolino View Post
I recently bled the ABS system on my bike using a vacuum bleed running at 21 psi. It's imperative to ensure you check the vacuum pressure holds when you draw a vacuum, else you are just drawing more air into the system. Most often air is drawn in through the bleed nipple threads. I use a sparing amount of Teflon tape on the threads of the bleed nipples. You will know if it's effective by observing the gauge pressure remaining constant. You will need to draw through are least two or three times refilling the reservoir before it runs empty. Then repeat at the master cylinder. To effectively bleed the rear caliper it must be inverted so the bleed nipple is higher than the body of the caliper itself. This is not a hard and fast guide but as long as all your connections to and from the vacuum bleeder are airtight, it is a very effective method for bleeding the ABS system.
Thanks, I did it exactly this way last evening. Brake is rock solid again
It took me almost 1/2 lt of DOT4 until no more air bubbles appeared!

Last edited by Gecko; Sep 26th 2014 at 10:00 PM.
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Old Sep 29th 2014, 02:54 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by Gecko View Post
Thanks, I did it exactly this way last evening. Brake is rock solid again
It took me almost 1/2 lt of DOT4 until no more air bubbles appeared!

About right Gecko, I used almost 3/4 litre just on the front brakes!
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Old Jul 21st 2015, 11:55 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Gecko View Post
Thanks, I did it exactly this way last evening. Brake is rock solid again
It took me almost 1/2 lt of DOT4 until no more air bubbles appeared!
Can you help me too?

I just replaced the rear master cylinder and as you understand no any more the rear brake :-(

Should I pull off the rear caliper or I can do it w/o it?
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Old Jul 22nd 2015, 11:55 AM   #27
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Guys, please help me to find where is the issue with the brakes.

I have replaced the master brake cylinder and followed this way to free the system from air. But when I finished I was not satisfied about result. When I press the pedal first time there is no almost the brake, second - there is but looks like flabby, third - better, fourth - strong and etc..
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Old Jul 22nd 2015, 12:33 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by bearacer View Post
Guys, please help me to find where is the issue with the brakes.

I have replaced the master brake cylinder and followed this way to free the system from air. But when I finished I was not satisfied about result. When I press the pedal first time there is no almost the brake, second - there is but looks like flabby, third - better, fourth - strong and etc..
try this - take a heavy weight and tie it to the brake pedal, so the brake pedal stays depressed. leave it overnight. it should make a difference.
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Old Jul 22nd 2015, 02:39 PM   #29
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The proper way to bleed the rear brakes as appears in the service manual...no weights or voodoo involved.

Get the rear caliper as high as possible. This will place it over the height of the ABS pump. On the rear brakes, the whole system is under the ABS pump, and if you suck air in you'll never get it out until its higher than the ABS unit, which this procedure allows for.

Its also important when bleeding in this manner to have some type of shim or space which is the approximate thickness of the disk rotor between the pads. This step is pretty easy to overlook in the instructions.
Attached Thumbnails
How To: Rear Brake Bleed-capture.jpg   How To: Rear Brake Bleed-capture2.jpg   How To: Rear Brake Bleed-capture3.jpg   How To: Rear Brake Bleed-capture4.jpg  
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Old Jul 26th 2015, 07:49 AM   #30
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Today I did it. I have used the service manual. Before that I could not find this article since the search there is not perfect.

I have bleed around 150-200 ml of brake fluid and now the brake looks so strong. But I still did not test it on the road because the maintenance is continued... :-)

Thank you, everyone.

Is there article how to do the same with clutch? I have a plan to replace clutch slave cylinder...

Last edited by bearacer; Jul 26th 2015 at 07:59 AM.
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