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Old Nov 18th 2013, 04:01 AM   #21
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Hey guys question:

I just winterized my bikes, and one of the things I do is I get the bike hot, and then just drain the oil out, and replace with some generic honda racing oil for storage. I do not remove the filter, I just open the drain bolt and drain whatever comes out, then replace the bolt and fill. Well I did this with the pani, and only about 2 liters came out. Is this normal?? I drained my Daytona and got about 3 liters. Does more oil sit in our oil filter than a typical bikes filter?? Should I be concerned about this??

I know I should probably drain the whole thing, but I'm kind of torn because although I wanna get all the crud out, if I empty the whole thing then when I put the storage oil in, it's not going to get into all the places it needs to unless I run the engine, which I don't want to do with storage oil so......I go back and forth on it. What do you guys think?

Also, if you're wondering about the filter change, I change the filter in the Spring when I for sure drain all (or at least the oil in the filter as well).
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Old Nov 19th 2013, 05:58 AM   #22
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....I'm guessing either no one saw my post, or no one has emptied their oil lol.

Anyone???
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Old Nov 19th 2013, 08:39 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by MacaveliMC View Post
....I'm guessing either no one saw my post, or no one has emptied their oil lol.

Anyone???
What to say, other than you have 1.7ltr of old dirty oil stuck in the filter and pump.

Remove the filter and drain the pump, to get everything out, then start the bike without filter to circulate it.

It shouldn't do any harm at all ... remember the guy that had no filter until first service
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Old Nov 19th 2013, 07:48 PM   #24
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Hold on, so you're saying not changing your filter and not circulating the pump will leave 1.7 liters (around same quarts) in the bike?

I just changed mine and don't recall that much oil coming out from changing the filter.

I did run the starter a couple times before the engine could fire, but didn't really see much more oil come out.

I just drained the oil, changed the filter, thumbed the starter a couple of times and refilled it.

Do you guys do more than that?

Went with Mobil 1 full synthetic, 10w40. $10.99 / qt @ Pep Boys. Replaced filter 2 o-rings & crush washer. $57.31.

Total cost:
Oil: $44.00 + filter, rings, washer $57.31, Beer $10.99 = $112.30.
Dealer wanted $160 + tax...

I prefer doing it myself so I could look over everything and have some quality "me time"..... :-)
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Old Nov 19th 2013, 08:07 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by southeastduc View Post
Hold on, so you're saying not changing your filter and not circulating the pump will leave 1.7 liters (around same quarts) in the bike?

I just changed mine and don't recall that much oil coming out from changing the filter.

I did run the starter a couple times before the engine could fire, but didn't really see much more oil come out.

I just drained the oil, changed the filter, thumbed the starter a couple of times and refilled it.

Do you guys do more than that?

Went with Mobil 1 full synthetic, 10w40. $10.99 / qt @ Pep Boys. Replaced filter 2 o-rings & crush washer. $57.31.

Total cost:
Oil: $44.00 + filter, rings, washer $57.31, Beer $10.99 = $112.30.
Dealer wanted $160 + tax...

I prefer doing it myself so I could look over everything and have some quality "me time"..... :-)
I would recommend next time don't crank the bike over with no oil in it.
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Old Nov 19th 2013, 09:20 PM   #26
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Originally Posted by EvoL View Post
I would recommend next time don't crank the bike over with no oil in it.
x2
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Old Nov 19th 2013, 09:22 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by southeastduc View Post
Hold on, so you're saying not changing your filter and not circulating the pump will leave 1.7 liters (around same quarts) in the bike?
Where else could it be ?

Maybe he could try puckering up and blowing down the fill hole, or giving the drain a good suck
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Old Nov 20th 2013, 03:42 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Xbox View Post
Where else could it be ?

Maybe he could try puckering up and blowing down the fill hole, or giving the drain a good suck
Well, I guess the more important question at this stage would be, how much is there supposed to be?? If you drain both the filter and plug.
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Old Nov 20th 2013, 03:54 AM   #29
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i believe someone posted on this tread earlier, cant remember. I change the oil, remove filter (making sure excess oil doesnt spill all over), key the bike on, but do not start, put it into 6th gear and manually move the rear wheel. that should clear out any leftover old oil. put new filter in, oil plug back, fill with oil, crank up- it does take a few tries to crank.
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Old Jan 24th 2014, 02:51 AM   #30
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One more thing...

This is something I was unaware of, and I'm sure it is something that most dealerships do not do. Every two oil changes you need to clean the oil pickup gauze filter.

I have the steps in PDF format, but of course the file is too big.

Every two oil changes clean the oil pickup gauze filter.
Remove the exhaust tail pipes.
Remove the right-hand side fairing.

Loosen nut (B), release nipple (C) and remove the exhaust valve cable with guide (D).
How to: Change Oil-attachment-1.jpg

Remove oil sump (6) by loosening screws (7) and by moving away the radiator support lower end.
How to: Change Oil-attachment-2.jpgHow to: Change Oil-attachment-3.jpg

Loosen screw (9) and remove the complete mesh filter assembly (8).
How to: Change Oil-attachment-4.jpg

Clean it with compressed air, aiming the jet from the inside towards the outside.
How to: Change Oil-attachment-5.jpg

Fit seal (10) onto oil drain plug ensuring that its sharp edge faces the oil sump.
Smear seal(10) with the specified grease and position it in the complete mesh filter assembly (9).
How to: Change Oil-attachment-6.jpg

Apply the recommended threadlocker on screw (9).
Fit the complete mesh filter assembly (8) by driving the flange fully home onto casing and tighten screw (9) to 10 Nm (Min.9 Nm Max. 11Nm).
How to: Change Oil-attachment-7.jpg

Carefully clean the mating surface between oil sump and casing.
Smear the oil sump surface with liquid gasket.
Centre the sump on the crankcase by means of the locating dowels.
Fit nipple (C) in the proper seat on the exhaust valve and tighten nut (B).
Click image for larger version

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Position guide (D) onto oil sump starting screws (7).
Tighten screws (7) to a torque of 13 Nm (Min.12 Nm Max.14 Nm) following the specified sequence.
Click image for larger version

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ID:	7824How to: Change Oil-attachment-10.jpgClick image for larger version

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Refit the exhaust tail pipes.
Refit the fairings.
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