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Guides How-To Guides for the Ducati 1299, 1199, 899


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Old Jul 5th 2015, 07:54 PM   #71
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For the filter cover removal, I just made this pick out of a coat hanger that fits behind the flat parts @ 4 o'clock & 8 o'clock underneath and behind the bolt holes. The small one on the below is for removing the filter itself.



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Old Jul 6th 2015, 11:16 AM   #72
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Use the passenger seat bolts or similar with the tapped holes on the cover - works great, no need for a pick or coat hanger
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Old Jul 6th 2015, 11:31 AM   #73
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Originally Posted by fzr100098 View Post
Use the passenger seat bolts or similar with the tapped holes on the cover - works great, no need for a pick or coat hanger
The holes are already tapped in the 1299? I saw someone tapping them in post #53, didn't realize they are pre-tapped now.

Last edited by Slowdive2; Jul 6th 2015 at 11:38 AM.
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Old Jul 6th 2015, 11:51 AM   #74
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Yes.
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Old Jul 10th 2015, 02:24 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by Slowdive2 View Post
The holes are already tapped in the 1299? I saw someone tapping them in post #53, didn't realize they are pre-tapped now.

That was me. If you read my post carefully you will see that I said it was a re post of a post a did about a year before or something similar.

If you look at my signature you will see I have a 1199S from 2012. Back then they did not have any thread in that cover. In the late 2013 or 2014 model they fixed that and put some thread in there. It actually started as a thread by Anti Hero and was for the 1199. When that thread started and when I posted the original there was no 1299.

I just reposted the thread for those that have the older model.

cheers
Thanks from mark419ny

Last edited by bradp51; Jul 10th 2015 at 02:27 AM. Reason: Spelling.
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Old Jul 10th 2015, 08:03 PM   #76
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I feel like I'm going to strip the oil filter cover bolts at 9lbs. Should I trust my wrench or my gut? Wrench is higher quality- so I'm sure it's accurate. I'd hate to strip the mount holes!
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Old Dec 9th 2015, 09:35 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by EvoL View Post
Thank you. Just because I can afford the filter, doesn't mean it needs to be changed.
I agree. On my zx10 race bike I change oil every 500km . Filter only every 1500km . I then cut it open and look for unwelcome bits. In the aviation industry, oil filters get always cut open and inspected.
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Old Aug 15th 2016, 08:57 AM   #78
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Little tip to those like me who don't fully read the workshop manual...there's RTV (Threebond TB1215 actually) on the drain plug (from Ducati) and the manual calls for you to replace it on an oil change.

Now, most likely, if you don't clean off the threads completely like I did, you can happily remove and re-install the drain plug and the sealant will stay in place. You have a very low chance (I'd think) of actually damaging the sealer. But I noticed what I thought was a lot of junk on the threads so I thought I'd be all smart and completely clean off the threads of the drain plug and re-install it all shiny new-like. Now I have 1-2 drops of oil/day.

Details from the workshop manual for my 1199:
Remove any metallic deposits from the end of the magnetic drain plug (1).
Clean the threads of the drain plug and apply THREEBOND TB1215.
Refit the drain plug complete with seal (2) to the sump.
Position seal (2) ensuring that the sharp edge faces the chain-side casing.
Tighten drain plug (1) to a torque of 14 Nm (Min. 13 Nm - Max. 15 Nm).
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Old Jun 15th 2017, 10:12 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by bwaide View Post
This is something I was unaware of, and I'm sure it is something that most dealerships do not do. Every two oil changes you need to clean the oil pickup gauze filter.

I have the steps in PDF format, but of course the file is too big.

Every two oil changes clean the oil pickup gauze filter.
Remove the exhaust tail pipes.
Remove the right-hand side fairing.

Loosen nut (B), release nipple (C) and remove the exhaust valve cable with guide (D).

Remove oil sump (6) by loosening screws (7) and by moving away the radiator support lower end.

Loosen screw (9) and remove the complete mesh filter assembly (8).

Clean it with compressed air, aiming the jet from the inside towards the outside.

Fit seal (10) onto oil drain plug ensuring that its sharp edge faces the oil sump.
Smear seal(10) with the specified grease and position it in the complete mesh filter assembly (9).

Apply the recommended threadlocker on screw (9).
Fit the complete mesh filter assembly (8) by driving the flange fully home onto casing and tighten screw (9) to 10 Nm (Min.9 Nm Max. 11Nm).

Carefully clean the mating surface between oil sump and casing.
Smear the oil sump surface with liquid gasket.
Centre the sump on the crankcase by means of the locating dowels.
Fit nipple (C) in the proper seat on the exhaust valve and tighten nut (B).

Position guide (D) onto oil sump starting screws (7).
Tighten screws (7) to a torque of 13 Nm (Min.12 Nm Max.14 Nm) following the specified sequence.

Refit the exhaust tail pipes.
Refit the fairings.
Did this last week after 5 years, 5 oil changes and 12500km road and track.
Uhhhm, I know, I'm lazy. But this time it was worth the work (exhaust slipons have to be removed )....
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How to: Change Oil-dirty.jpg  
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Old Jun 15th 2017, 11:33 AM   #80
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Originally Posted by bradp51 View Post
That was me. If you read my post carefully you will see that I said it was a re post of a post a did about a year before or something similar.

If you look at my signature you will see I have a 1199S from 2012. Back then they did not have any thread in that cover. In the late 2013 or 2014 model they fixed that and put some thread in there. It actually started as a thread by Anti Hero and was for the 1199. When that thread started and when I posted the original there was no 1299.

I just reposted the thread for those that have the older model.

cheers
what he said was a very important mod for us early 1199s guys. it was a huge PIA to get the cover off without tapping it.
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