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Old Nov 7th 2012, 08:29 PM   #11
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I Ride: Ducati 1199 Tricolore S, 1199 Panigale ABS, Bimota Tesi2D,DB-7,DB1,etc. BMW alpha Racing s1000rr
Torque Values 1199 Panigale (* critical point for dynamic safety. Tightening torque tolerance must be 5%.)

REAR SUSPENSION - All values in Nm.

Screw retaining support to engine block
M8x1.25
25*
Grease B

Screw retaining rocker arm halves to LH support
M8x1.25
60*
Grease B

Special screw retaining suspension reaction rod clamp
M6x1
10*
Grease B

Special screw retaining suspension linkage to swingarm
M10x1.25
45*
Grease B

Nut retaining suspension linkage to rocker arm
M10x1.25
45*
Grease B

Screw retaining shock absorber to engine block
M10x1.5
45*
Grease B

Screw retaining shock absorber to rocker arm
M10x1.5
45*
Grease B

Screw retaining shock absorber spring guard
M5x0.8
6

Rear suspension linkage centre distance adjustment
M14x1
GREASE C

END
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Old Nov 8th 2012, 05:00 AM   #12
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Definitely need a cheeter bar
230 nm for rear...that is why its a bitch to get off
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Old Nov 8th 2012, 09:49 AM   #13
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I Ride: 1199 Panigale, S1000RR, RSV4 Factory
Originally Posted by efna View Post
The nuts are very tight. You will need 3/4" drive tools and a long breaker bar to loosen them. Both side are normal as far as tightening or loosening. Clockwise to tighten, counter-clockwise to loosen.

Some tips.

Loosening. Put bike on the rear stand, use a tie down strap to secure the rear wheel to the stand. Have a friend, wife, etc... press hard on the rear break while you loosen the bolt. Don't use a block of wood to leverage the wheel against the swingarm! Also make sure that the gearbox is in neutral.

Installing. Once off, clean the threads on the nut and the shaft. Apply a small amount of grease on the threads and the back side of the nut before putting the nut back on. As when lossening make sure the gearbox is in neutral and have someone apply the rear brake.

When tightenting, torque to 162 ft/lbs - 220-230nm.

When aligning the holes for the safety clip always tighten to align the holes. NEVER loosen to align the holes. There are 4 holes and chances are one will line up once you hit the right torque setting anyways. I've had mine off a few times and each time one of the holes lined up. Also, after installing the clips make sure that the pin sticks through the hole and not just in to it.

Take the bike for a short ride and recheck the torque.

Also, when/if you take off the rear wheel make sure the locating pins go into the small round holes in the back of the wheel and not the elongated slots.

Finally, invest in the proper 55 mm socket. You can get it from Ducati. My dealer had them in stock. They are expensive.

Tip: If you are installing anodized nuts to replace the factory nuts wrap one layer of masking or painters tape around the nut then trim the excess from the sides. This will prevent damaging the finish when tightening the nut.
I could be wrong and this may have changed for the newer bikes but I thought I read for the 996 bikes the bike should be in 6th gear when removing the nut.
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Old Nov 8th 2012, 09:54 AM   #14
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I Ride: GSXR750 K7, 1199 Panigale
Originally Posted by rm4two View Post
I could be wrong and this may have changed for the newer bikes but I thought I read for the 996 bikes the bike should be in 6th gear when removing the nut.
In just thinking about it, I am not sure that I would want to put that much stress on the gearbox. 165 ft lbs (or more) or force transfered through the rear wheel to the gearbox almost doubles the torque output of the engine. Also, if taking into account torque multiplication through the final drive (say 3 to 1) that is a lot of stress on the gearbox.

I figure why worry. Just use the rear brake. It has more than enough clamping power. When John took of the rear wheel to drop the exhaust for the bowden cable recall he simply used the brake to hold the rear wheel. The bike was clearly in neutral as well. Saw it with my own two eyes. ;-)

Last edited by efna; Nov 8th 2012 at 10:03 AM.
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Old Nov 8th 2012, 10:39 AM   #15
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up to you but I'd never put the bike in gear to hold the wheel in place, too much stress on the transmission.

May have not been clear my suggestion for the 2x4 wood was to place on the floor at the back of the tire, wedge it in. DON'T PUT A BAR IN THE SPOKES OF THE WHEEL< that's been done by some and broke the wheel.

Yep unfortunately the prevalence of crap alloy tools on ebay from china, I'll stick with steel such as speedy moto.

Originally Posted by rm4two View Post
I could be wrong and this may have changed for the newer bikes but I thought I read for the 996 bikes the bike should be in 6th gear when removing the nut.
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Old Nov 8th 2012, 10:43 AM   #16
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I Ride: 1199 Panigale, S1000RR, RSV4 Factory
Oh i'm not saying to do that and never have/will myself. Just saying I thought at one point on the 996 bikes that Ducati recommended putting the bike is 6th before removing the wheel nut? Actually it was more like put it in 6th gear, hold the rear brake then remove the rear nut. But again, I could be wrong on this.

****Update****
Yep, just did some quick research and it was when replacing the dry clutch that the bike was put into gear. I knew I read it somewhere just wasn't sure where.

Last edited by rm4two; Nov 8th 2012 at 10:48 AM.
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Old Nov 8th 2012, 10:28 PM   #17
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Wink

Hi,

It is a normal nut, but since it is tighten to 230 N.m, it can easily seize specially if you do not do it often.
I have bought a set of wheels for track days and do often this way:
Put the rear wheel of the bike against a wall or any large floor hold.
Place the bike on the side stand and engage first gear.
Heat the nut with a thermal gun, one or two minutes, until it burns when you touch it with your hand (approximately 70C).
Stand by the right of the bike.
Place your right foot on the right footpeg and push down the rear brake with your right toe. This helps to lock the wheel while maintaining the bike securely.
Place the 55mm (12 sides) whrench on the nut with your right hand.
Push the wrench down with your left hand.

Be carefull to tighten it back to the specified torke and with the suggested additive lubricant. If you do not have this additive use Lithium grease:

M48 rear wheel nut - Rear wheel nut fastener M48x1,5 230 N.n 5% SHELL RETINAX HDX2 (on thread and under head)

Done...
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Old Nov 8th 2012, 10:28 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by louiag View Post
hi
can anyone please give me some info about removing the rear wheel nut- the Panigale is the first Ducati i have owned does the rear wheel nut undo clockwise or anti clockwise? i was trying to remove it tonight in a clockwise direction but it won't budge i was doing it in this direction as my mv used to undo in this direction any help would be appreciated

Hi louiag...The Panigale is different from the MV. The Panigale's rear axle nut is removed by rotating the axle nut counter clockwise and Clockwise to tighten...like the norm. The MV agusta's are the reverse...Clockwise to loosen and counterclockwise to tighten.

Ducati uses the normal and usual way of tightening.

Fyi...
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Old Nov 13th 2012, 10:30 PM   #19
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Guys another way of removing the rear wheel is this: I've done it...

1. Put the bike on the side stand.
2. Decrease rear tire pressure as in almost flat...not too flat though...
Have someone sit on the bike while almost flattening the tire.

3. Have a friend/partner/son sit on the bike and apply rear brake pressure
this time.
4. Leave it on neutral. Do not engage it in gear...for peace of mind
5. Have a cheater bar. I got an old 4 foot water pipe that slips through my
wrench handle for added leverage.
6. Use the 55mm socket with socket wrench and cheater bar... spin socket
counter clockwise to loosen.

Socket will loosen will slight force and tire will not want to spin due to it being almost flat, plus the weight of the rider and his foot on the rear brake pedal.

I have an air compressor, so once i'm done with my rear wheel installation...I simply pump up the rear tire to its recommended pressure setting...

Viola!!! Thats it.
Thanks from ymikkel

Last edited by mig1199; Nov 13th 2012 at 10:34 PM.
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Old Nov 14th 2012, 06:46 AM   #20
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I Ride: 1199, 848r
Nice write up
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