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Old Mar 20th 2017, 09:09 AM   #1
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Lightbulb Lower Rear Subframe Mounting Bolts

I hate working on the "rear subframe lower mounting bolts".
It's diffcult to find the right torx bit tool and there is not much room for maneuvering

I wanted a lighter, cheap and more practical solution.

Easy: Bought two standard allen M8 bolts with 70mm length (in my case Titanium) and made two washers. OD 18mm, ID 8mm, 5mm thick (in my case also Titanium, but Aluminium works perfect and is even lighter).
Makes life much easier, you can use a standard small 1/4" hex bit and the bolt sticks out a little bit more....
Attached Thumbnails
Lower Rear Subframe Mounting Bolts-oem.jpg   Lower Rear Subframe Mounting Bolts-newbolts.jpg   Lower Rear Subframe Mounting Bolts-mounted.jpg  
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Old Mar 20th 2017, 09:13 AM   #2
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How much fun is the shock side with a washer? Podium said they would make me a 65mm bolt for the lower but I'm not holding my breath any longer.

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Old Mar 20th 2017, 09:29 AM   #3
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I am running stainless socket heads from Mc Master I know they are little heavier then ti definitely a step up from them crap torx ones.
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Old Mar 20th 2017, 09:31 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by RetardedTiming View Post
How much fun is the shock side with a washer? Podium said they would make me a 65mm bolt for the lower but I'm not holding my breath any longer.
I've done this mod last night first for the SL with a custom made CF heat shield. With the configuration on this bike it's still impossible to access the left bolt without removing the shock.

But on not-so-fucked-up Panigales the shock side is easy.
Made a picture of the tool..
Attached Thumbnails
Lower Rear Subframe Mounting Bolts-tool.jpg   Lower Rear Subframe Mounting Bolts-access.jpg  
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Old Mar 20th 2017, 09:35 AM   #5
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That's basically what I use to remove it as well. Just thinking the washer would add to the frustration. Sounds like it doesn't.
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Old Mar 20th 2017, 09:48 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by RetardedTiming View Post
That's basically what I use to remove it as well. Just thinking the washer would add to the frustration. Sounds like it doesn't.
For me it's much better.
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Old Mar 20th 2017, 10:23 AM   #7
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I just use standard Ti hex head bolts. Does the stock subframe need a complex lower bolt? Swivel socket and I have these things out in 20 seconds. I have seen a lot of complex fasteners discussed here lately. I seem to do fine with stock Ti fasteners just about everywhere.
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Old Mar 20th 2017, 07:57 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by endodoc View Post
I just use standard Ti hex head bolts. Does the stock subframe need a complex lower bolt? Swivel socket and I have these things out in 20 seconds. I have seen a lot of complex fasteners discussed here lately. I seem to do fine with stock Ti fasteners just about everywhere.
But Ed we are not all super mechanics on here. I am very impressed with what you can get done in one day. I wish I could work as fast or have the knowledge you have.

I remember this post. You managed to do in a day what it would take most mechanics a week to do. Especially when they charge by the hour.

Replaced complete injector system. All pieces
Replaced air filter (p16)
Replaced coils, wires and plugs
Pulled the forks. Replaced head bearings, cleaned the triple and forks.
Rebuilt front calipers, installed new pads and 12 point Ti caliper bolts.
Pulled the MAC radiator and put a new one in.
Tossed the fairing holder and headlight. Installed Motoholder mount and ram air tubes. Working on a headlight.
Checked the valves in both heads
Changed the oil and filter
Changed the clutch plates (Barnett) its a EVR clutch and basket
Changed the front sprocket
Pulled the entire drive assembly and rebuilt everything. Installed new Sitta 41 and ERV 520.
Pulled the swingarm and replaced the Ti swingarm pivot shafts and the roller bearings.
Pulled the rear Brembo and freshened it up.
Swapped the Fuel pump.
Made a new stiffer shift rod for the TransLogic unit.
Safety wired it all back together and cleaned the thing. Done. Looked for any leaks or residue. Not a single sign of a drip anywhere.
Runs like a watch. Worst thing was the cleaning. The roads here must be horrible. I clean the thing regularly and it is apart quite a bit but it was filthy in places I didn't realize. No idea what the problem was and I could give two shits
Its fixed. The plugs looked pretty good but aster 10500 miles, the gaps were shot. They were way out. The difference with the new plugs is quite noticeable so no they at least in my case were not 15k mile plugs. The swingarm shaft on the roller side was shot. If you are running these, the chain side is going to be shot in 4K miles.


And I am guessing with the tools you have it makes it easier. Takes me all day just to clean my bike let alone make custom parts (Translogic unit rod)

Sometimes its not about the speed we do things its about the challenge and reward of doing it ourselves in our own individual unique way. I think Gecko is a master of that. He always gives me great ideas.
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Old Mar 20th 2017, 08:11 PM   #9
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LOL again hardly the case. Im just a guy with too much time on my hands. No for sure the stuff Urs makes is top notch. He had OCD way worse than I do which is why his attention to detail is higher. My point was that sometimes, if you dont have access to make things, a more simple approach may suffice.
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Old Mar 20th 2017, 09:35 PM   #10
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My OCD won't let me use two different drive types for removing one part. I would have to change the upper as well. I happen to like Torx drive bolts plus they look cool IMHO.

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